几年前，和几位外交官一起讨论关于中国外交官礼服的样式，但始终没有写过相关的文章，今天看到这篇马格宁斯先生的文章，感觉很好，特摘抄来供圈内朋友一起品读。为了不让大家失望，特附上我的翻译在文章后面，请朋友们校正。

一、中国外交官礼服的沿革

外交官是国家的代表，外交礼服是国家形象的体现。中国的外交官穿什么礼服、外交礼服状况又如何？这的确是一个需要认真讨论与研究的问题。

中华民国之初，中国外交官曾经有过统一的外交官礼服。1913年，即中华民国二年，由外交部公布的《外交官领事官服制暂行章程》后，对外交官服制进行了重大的改变。它参考了西方的外交官服制，再搭配可以展现中国特色的元素所设计而成。《外交官领事官服制暂行章程》对于外交官服制的规范十分详细，它总共分成第一至第五章：大礼服、夜装礼服、小礼服、夏季礼服、凶服；其中第一章又分为第一至第七款：上衣、裤、冠、配剑、腰带、外褂、手套；其中大礼服又按照官阶大小分成：大使、公使之服，参事及总领事之服，一、二等秘书官暨领事之服，三等秘书官随员暨副领事、随习领事之服，使馆、领事馆委任官之服。以大使、公使之服规定最详细，是所有使馆官员礼服服制的基本款。以此通过政府立法的形式，明确了中国外交官的礼服。它的最显著的特点是：将“制式服装”与“外交职衔”统一在了“外交官礼服”上，这样在国际交往中，便可以一目了然的确定那个是中国外交官，而且还能明确是什么外交职衔的外交官，具有类似军队中军装军衔的功能。

新中国初期，中国外交官既穿中山装，也穿西装，但以中山装为主。上世纪60年代后，中山装成唯一的正式服装。改革开放以来，西装逐渐取代中山装。至上世纪90年代，中国驻外大使、参赞等，只在递交国书、参加庆典、高层访问等,以及在国庆招待会等场合才穿中山装，其他场合中国外交官基本穿西服不穿中山装。然而迄今为止，中国并没有以法律法规的形式明文规定中国外交官的礼服是什么。虽然，中国外交官在绝大多数场合都着西装；但是，西装仅是缘于西方人的普通服装，并非“礼服”。所以，中国外交官在要求穿着“礼服”出席的特定场合，只能以中山装作为中国的民族服装，视同为中国外交官的“礼服”。但是，无论是西装，还是中山装都可以说中外一般民众的普通着装，在特定的外交场合，并不能标明你的外交官身份和外交职衔。中国外交官礼服的探讨始终没有间断过，2012年01月14日，人民日报海外版(北京)以《中山装还能作外交礼服吗？》为题报道了“红都与中国外交官联谊座谈会”，外交部17位前驻外大使、参赞，就中山装在外交上的贡献、中山装能否担当外交礼服的重任、中山装如何创新等展开了热烈的座谈。外交官们认为：中国外交官有必要有外交官礼服；外交官礼服需要用立法的形式加以规定；中山装扮演着约定俗成的“外交官礼服”的角色；中山装需要不断地改革以适应外交工作需要。

更广泛意义上，中国官员的正式服装是什么？同样没有明文规定。除现在广泛都穿西装外，中山装在国内官员中已很少穿着，从中央领导层开始，各级官员也流行一种“深色的、拉链式的夹克衫”作为“官便服”。于是，便提出了如下问题：中国官员的“正装”是什么？中国官员的“便装”又是什么？中国官员的正装、便装与中国外交官的“外交官礼服”的联系与区别是什么？

二、世界各国外交官礼服的概况

外交官的礼服自然是一个国家的象征与名片。国际上遇到一些特定场合,例如递交国书、参加庆典、高层访问等,为了隆重起见外交官需要穿礼服。世界各地的外交官礼服五花八门，归纳起来国外外交官礼服的一般分为三大类：其一、以本国民族服装作为外交官礼服，如亚、非、拉和阿拉伯国家的外交官在隆重场合穿鲜艳的民族服装。其二、以燕尾服、晨晚礼服等作为外交官礼服，如美国、日本等国家。其三、以军人军礼服为基础样式、同时在礼服上佩戴外交官职衔标志作为外交官礼服，如欧洲君主制等国家。

举例说明：前苏联,还是现在的俄罗斯,外交官礼服的传统样式跟许多君主制国家的差不多，属于第三类的。在苏联-俄罗斯时代，外交系统一直是整个国家政治生活的一个重要部分，享有很高的地位，苏联外交人民委员（外长）是苏共中央政治局委员，是苏联核心决策层成员，其地位远高于一般的苏联元帅。

1943年，根据苏联最高苏维埃主席团的命令，为苏联外交官设置专门的“外交官衔级”和专用服装。苏联最高苏维埃颁布了外交人员服饰、礼仪和等级条例，并在外交人民委员部及苏联驻外使、领馆、办事处等机构全面执行，这套条例所制定的服饰规范、衔级符号等后来几经修改，在苏联时代被基本沿用，并在很大程度上影响了俄罗斯联邦的外交服饰，可谓意义深远。

苏联外交人员分为七等12级

第一等：苏联外交人民委员（外交部长）。

第二等：苏联副外交人民委员；一等驻外公使；二等驻外公使。

第三等：一等参赞；二等参赞。

第四等：一等1级秘书；一等2级秘书。

第五等：二等1级秘书；二等2级秘书。

第六等：三等秘书。

第七等：随员、使馆及其他外交随员等。

1943年苏联外交官衔级标志（七等12级）

苏联外交人员戴大檐式外交官帽，帽瓦上缀钉外交标志（见外交官徽章），帽墙为苏联国徽。参赞以上外交官佩金色饰带，中、初级外交官佩黑色皮革风带。制服由礼服、常服（夏季、冬季）和饰物构成。不同等级外交人员以服饰不同部位的不同纹章进行区分。礼服为黑色、双排扣大开领西服式，职务等级体现在肩章、领纹和袖纹这三个部位，可扎礼服腰带或不扎腰带，扎腰带时佩带外交官佩剑。胸前可佩戴苏联及外国政府颁发的勋章、奖章，佩戴方式与军队相同。常服亦为黑色，式样与礼服基本相同，无领纹和袖纹，仅佩戴肩章。常服分夏、冬季，冬季还可外穿外交官大衣。高级外交官头戴哥萨克式高筒皮帽，下级外交人员戴栽绒帽。

2001年，俄罗斯制定了新的外交官新礼服法令。这次俄罗斯外交官的新礼服十分讲究：纯黑色、双排扣、领子上方和袖口处绣有金色花纹，纽扣也是金色的，上面有国徽图案。这套礼服充分体现了俄罗斯外交政策的连续性。前苏联时期的礼服的颜色、式样和花纹的位置都继承下来了。根据礼宾规定，只有特命全权大使、一级和二级公使才能穿礼服。从公使领章上的星星数可以判断他们的级别的大小：一级公使3颗星；二级公使2颗星。前苏联外交礼宾规定，高中初级外交官均着礼服。现俄罗斯礼宾规定，只有特命全权大使、一级和二级公使才能穿礼服。俄罗斯对国际重大活动参加者的着装历来就有很高的要求。服装不仅仅要求体面，而且要华丽非凡，在外国人面前体现出俄罗斯泱泱大国的风范。

三、中国外交官礼服及外交职衔设计方案

中国作为世界级第一制造业大国，第二大经济体，第三军事大国等，已经以负责任大国的形象走到了世界舞台的中心。因此，中国的外交及外交官们将是国际大舞台上的“明星舞者”，名角是要好行头来扮相的，这个行头就是外交礼服。外交官的礼服则是一个国家的象征与名片。所以，中国外交官应该有自己外交礼服。具体如下：

（一）、中国外交官国家公务员职级与外交职衔

外交部公务员职级：正部长、副部长、正司长、副司长、正处长、副处长、主任科员、副主任科员、科员，共分第一至第九级，与国家公务员职级一致。具体如下：

第一级：正部长（外交首脑）。

第二级：副部长（外交副首脑）、一级大使（副部级）。

第三级：正司长、公使、二级大使、一级参赞、一级总领事。

第四级：副司长、三级大使、二级参赞、二级总领事、一级副总领事。

第五级：正处长、一等秘书、二级副总领事、一级领事。

第六级：副处长、二等秘书、二级领事。

第七级：三等秘书（正科级）、一级副领事。

第八级：随员（副科级）、二级副领事。

第九级：科员（没有外交官职衔,但外派时根据需要通常授随员衔）。

外交部外交官职衔：

1、外交首脑：正部长、副部长。

2、大使公使级：一级大使（副部级）、二级大使（正司级）、三级大使（副司级）；公使（正司级）。

3、参赞级：一级参赞（公使衔正司级）、二级参赞（副司级）。

4、秘书级：一等秘书（正处级）、二等秘书（副处级）、三等秘书（正科级）。

5、随员级：随员（副科级）。

6、总领事级：一级总领事（正司级）、二级总领事（副司级）；一级副总领事（副司级）、二级副总领事（正处级）。

7、领事级：一级领事（正处级）、二级领事（副处级）；一级副领事（正科级）、二级副领事（副科级）。

（二）、中国外交官外交礼服基本原则

中国外交官均统一着装外交官礼服，包括第一至第八级外交官，其中第一至第二级为最高级外交官，第三至第四级为高级外交官，第五至第六级为中级外交官，第七至第八级为初级外交官。基本原则要将“制式服装”与“外交职衔”等统一在“外交官礼服”上。

1、中国外交官礼服暨正装。中国外交官礼服，男性外交官为中山装套装，女性外交官为旗袍（外交官夫人参照执行）。其中男性最高级外交官礼服为黑色中山装，高级外交官礼服为藏蓝色中山装，中级以下外交官礼服为深灰色中山装。其中女性外交官可根据不同的外交场合，分别着装深色旗袍、浅色旗袍、花色旗袍等。特别需要强调的：对中山装一定要进行改革，需要将国徽、国旗、国名、外交官职衔等，通过肩、领、袖、纽扣等部位形象的表现出来。女性旗袍可通过丝巾、领花、胸花、腰带等来体现。中山装的具体式样，可由外交官员与专业服装设计师等各方面人员设计待定，最终需要履行法律程序予以确定并实施。

2、中国外交官常装。男性外交官为深色西服套装。女性外交官可为深色或浅色西服套装，也可采用不装饰国家识别的各色旗袍等。

3、中国外交官便装。男性外交官可为深色夹克衫、深色西装裤等。女性外交官不做明确规定，可以着时装等。

（三）、中国外交官外交礼服法律规定

中国外交官礼服代表着中国的形象，是国体的组成部分，绝非小事。因此，中国外交官礼服最终要通过立法的形式来确定。该法规或称为《中国人民共和国外交官礼服暂行规定》。

另外，中国公务员正装、常装、便装，可参照中国外交官正装、常装、便装执行。特别强调的公务员的“正装”，可以通过去掉在肩、领、袖、纽扣等，镶嵌国徽、国旗、国名、外交官职衔等装饰后的“中山装”，作为中国公务员正装。常装、便装，可直接参照中国外交官常装与便装执行。

1. The history of Chinese diplomat's dress Diplomats are representatives of the country, and diplomatic dresses are the embodiment of the country's image. What kind of dresses and diplomatic dresses are worn by Chinese diplomats? This is indeed an issue that requires serious discussion and research.

At the beginning of the Republic of China, Chinese diplomats used to have uniform diplomatic dresses. In 1913, the second year of the Republic of China, after the "Interim Regulations on the Service System for Diplomats and Consular Officials" promulgated by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, major changes were made to the service system for diplomats. It refers to the western diplomatic service system and is designed with elements that can show Chinese characteristics.

The "Interim Regulations on the System of Service for Diplomats and Consular Officials" is very detailed. It is divided into chapters 1 to 5: large dress, evening dress, small dress, summer dress, and murderous dress;

the first chapter It is divided into the first to seventh paragraphs: coat, trousers, crown, matching sword, belt, outer jacket, and gloves; among them, the big dress is divided into ambassador, minister's clothing, counselor and consul general's clothing, one and two The service of other secretarial officers and consulates, the service of third-class secretarial attachés and deputy consulates, and the service of attending consulates, and the service of officials appointed by embassies and consulates. The ambassador’s and minister’s uniforms are the most detailed. It is the basic standard for all embassy officials. In this way, government legislation was adopted to clarify the dress of Chinese diplomats. Its most notable feature is: the "standard clothing" and the "diplomatic title" are unified on the "diplomat dress", so that in international exchanges, it can be clearly determined that it is a Chinese diplomat, and it can be clearly Diplomats with diplomatic ranks have functions similar to military ranks in the military.

In the early days of New China, Chinese diplomats wore both tunic suits and suits, but mainly tunic suits. After the 1960s, Zhongshan became the only formal dress. Since the reform and opening up, suits have gradually replaced Chinese tunic suits. In the 1990s, Chinese ambassadors and counselors abroad only wore Chinese tunic suits when they submitted credentials, participated in celebrations, high-level visits, and at National Day receptions. On other occasions, Chinese diplomats basically wore suits and not Chinese tunic suits. However, so far, China has not explicitly stipulated in the form of laws and regulations what Chinese diplomats' dresses are. Although, Chinese diplomats wear suits on most occasions; however, suits are only ordinary clothing due to Westerners, not "dresses." Therefore, Chinese diplomats can only use Chinese tunic suits as Chinese national costumes when they are required to wear "dresses" to attend special occasions, which are regarded as the "dresses" of Chinese diplomats. However, whether it is a suit or a tunic, it can be said that ordinary Chinese and foreign people wear ordinary clothes. In a specific diplomatic occasion, it cannot indicate your diplomat status and diplomatic title. The discussion on the Chinese diplomat's dress has never stopped.

On January 14, 2012, the Overseas Edition of People's Daily (Beijing) published "Can the Chinese tunic suit be used as a diplomatic dress?" "Reported on the "Red Capital and Chinese Diplomats Forum". The 17 former ambassadors and counselors of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs talked about the contribution of the Chinese tunic suit to diplomacy, whether the tunic suit can play the important role of the diplomatic dress, and how the tunic suit can innovate. A lively discussion. Diplomats believe that it is necessary for Chinese diplomats to have diplomatic dresses; diplomatic dresses need to be regulated in the form of legislation; tunic suits play the role of customary "diplomat dresses"; tunic suits need to be continuously reformed to meet the needs of diplomatic work. In a broader sense, what is the formal dress of a Chinese official? There is also no express provision. In addition to the widespread use of suits, Chinese tunic suits are rarely worn by domestic officials. Starting from the central leadership, officials at all levels have also popularized a "dark, zippered jacket" as "official casual wear." Therefore, the following question was asked: What is the "formal attire" of Chinese officials? What is the "plain clothes" of Chinese officials? What is the connection and difference between the formal and casual clothes of Chinese officials and the "diplomatic dress" of Chinese diplomats?

2. Overview of Diplomats' Dresses in the World Diplomats' dresses are naturally a symbol and business card of a country. On certain occasions internationally, such as submitting credentials, participating in celebrations, high-level visits, etc., diplomats need to wear formal dresses for the sake of grandeur.

There are various types of diplomatic dresses around the world. To sum up, foreign diplomat dresses are generally divided into three categories:

First, the national costume is used as diplomatic dress, such as Asian, African, Latin American and Arab diplomats wear on grand occasions Bright national costumes.

Second, tuxedos, morning and evening dresses are used as diplomatic dresses, such as the United States, Japan and other countries.

The third is to use military uniforms as the basic style, and wear diplomat title marks on the dresses as diplomatic dresses, such as European monarchies and other countries. For example: in the former Soviet Union, or now Russia, the traditional style of diplomat's dress is similar to that of many monarchies, belonging to the third category. In the Soviet-Russian era, the diplomatic system has always been an important part of the political life of the entire country and enjoyed a high status. The People’s Commissar for Foreign Affairs of the Soviet Union (Foreign Minister) is a member of the Politburo of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union and a member of the core decision-making level of the Soviet Union. Higher than the average Soviet marshal. In 1943, according to the order of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the Soviet Union, special "diplomat ranks" and special clothing were set up for Soviet diplomats. The Supreme Soviet of the Soviet Union promulgated the regulations on the dress, etiquette and rank of diplomats, which were fully implemented in the People’s Committee of Foreign Affairs and Soviet embassies, consulates, offices and other institutions. The dress norms, rank symbols, etc. formulated by this set of regulations were later After several revisions, it was basically used in the Soviet era, and to a large extent affected the diplomatic dress of the Russian Federation, which has far-reaching significance.

Soviet diplomats are divided into seven classes and 12 first class: the Soviet People’s Commissar for Foreign Affairs (Minister of Foreign Affairs).

Second class: Deputy People’s Commissar for Foreign Affairs of the Soviet Union;

first class foreign minister; second class foreign minister.

The third class: first-class counsellor; second-class counsellor.

Fourth class: first class secretary; first class secretary.

Fifth class: second class 1 secretary; second class 2 secretary.

Sixth class: third class secretary.

Seventh class: attachés, embassies and other diplomatic attaches, etc.

In 1943, the Soviet diplomatic rank mark (level 7 and 12) Soviet diplomats wore large brim diplomatic hats, with diplomatic emblems (see diplomatic badges) on the cap tiles, and the Soviet Union national emblem on the cap wall. Diplomats above counsellors wear golden ribbons, and junior and junior diplomats wear black leather belts. Uniforms consist of dresses, regular clothes (summer and winter) and accessories.

Diplomats of different ranks are distinguished by different coats of arms on different parts of their clothing. The dress is a black, double-breasted, open-necked suit style. The job level is embodied in the epaulettes, collar lines and sleeve lines. The dress belt can be tied or not, and the diplomat's sword is worn when the belt is tied. Medals and medals issued by the Soviet Union and foreign governments can be worn on the chest in the same way as the military. The regular dress is also black, and the style is basically the same as that of the dress, without collar and sleeve patterns, and only wearing epaulettes. The regular service is divided into summer and winter, and diplomatic coats can be worn outside in winter. High-level diplomats wear Cossack-style high-barreled leather caps, and lower-level diplomats wear velvet caps. In 2001, Russia enacted a new decree on new dresses for diplomats. The new dress of the Russian diplomat is very particular: pure black, double-breasted, gold patterns embroidered on the top of the collar and cuffs, the buttons are also gold, and there are national emblems on them. This dress fully embodies the continuity of Russian foreign policy. The colors, styles and patterns of dresses in the former Soviet Union have been inherited.

According to protocol regulations, only ambassadors extraordinarily and plenipotentiary, first-level and second-level ministers can wear dresses. From the number of stars on the ministerial badge, you can judge their level: first-level ministers 3 stars; second-level ministers 2 stars. The former Soviet Union's diplomatic protocol stipulated that all junior high school diplomats wear formal dresses. The current Russian protocol stipulates that only ambassadors extraordinarily and plenipotentiary, first- and second-level ministers can wear dresses. Russia has always had high requirements for the dress of participants in major international events. Clothing is not only required to be decent, but also gorgeous and extraordinary, reflecting the demeanor of Russia in front of foreigners.

3. Chinese Diplomat Dress and Diplomatic Title Design Plan. As the world's largest manufacturing country, the second largest economy, and the third military power, China has come to the center of the world stage as a responsible power. Therefore, Chinese diplomats and diplomats will be "star dancers" on the international stage. Famous actors should be dressed up in good outfits. This outfit is a diplomatic dress. The dress of a diplomat is a symbol and business card of a country.

Therefore, Chinese diplomats should have their own diplomatic attire. The details are as follows:

(1) National civil servant ranks and diplomatic ranks of Chinese diplomats.

Civil servant ranks of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs: Minister, Deputy Minister, Chief Director, Deputy Chief, Chief, Deputy Chief, Chief Staff, and Deputy Chief Staff , Section staff, are divided into the first to the ninth level, consistent with the ranks of national civil servants.

The details are as follows:

First level: Minister (head of foreign affairs).

The second level: Deputy Minister (Deputy Head of Foreign Affairs), First-Class Ambassador (Deputy Ministerial Level).

The third level: the director, minister, second-level ambassador, first-level counsellor, first-level consul general.

The fourth level: deputy director, third-level ambassador, second-level counselor, second-level consul general, first-level deputy consul general.

Fifth level: Division Chief, First Secretary, Second-level Deputy Consul-General, First-level Consul.

Level 6: Deputy Director, Second Secretary, and Second Consul.

Seventh level: third-level secretary (official level), first-level deputy consul.

The eighth level: attache (deputy section level), second-level deputy consul.

The ninth level: Clerk (there is no diplomatic title, but the title of attaché is usually granted when required).

Titles of diplomats in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs:

1. Head of Foreign Affairs: Minister and Deputy Minister.

2. The ambassador and minister level: first-level ambassador (deputy ministerial level), second-level ambassador (director-director level), third-level ambassador (deputy director-level); minister (director-director level).

3. Counsellor level: first-level counselor (minister rank of director-general), second-level counsellor (deputy director-level).

4. Secretary level: First-class secretary (director level), second-class secretary (deputy division level), and third-class secretary (director level).

5. Attaché level: Attaché (deputy department level).

6. Consul-General Level: First-level Consul-General (Director-level), Second-level Consul-General (Deputy-director level); First-level Deputy Consul-General (Deputy-director level), Second-level Deputy Consul-General (director-level).

7. Consular level: first-level consul (director-level), second-level consul (deputy-level); first-level deputy consul (director-level), second-level deputy consul (deputy-level).

(2) Basic Principles of Chinese Diplomats’ Diplomatic Dresses Chinese diplomats all wear diplomat dress uniformly, including diplomats of the first to eighth ranks, among which the first to second ranks are the most senior diplomats, and the third to fourth ranks As senior diplomats, the fifth to sixth ranks are intermediate diplomats, and the seventh to eighth ranks are junior diplomats.

The basic principle is to unify "standard clothing" and "diplomatic titles" in the "diplomatic dress".

1. Chinese diplomat dress and formal wear. Chinese diplomat's dress, male diplomat's tunic suit, female diplomat's cheongsam (refer to the implementation of the wife of diplomats). Among them, the most senior male diplomat's dress is a black tunic, the senior diplomat's dress is a navy blue tunic, and the middle-rank and lower diplomatic's dress is a dark gray tunic. Among them, female diplomats can wear dark cheongsam, light cheongsam, and colorful cheongsam according to different diplomatic occasions. What needs to be emphasized: the Chinese tunic must be reformed, and the national emblem, national flag, country name, diplomatic title, etc., must be displayed through the shoulders, collars, sleeves, buttons and other parts of the image. Women's cheongsam can be embodied by silk scarves, collars, corsages, belts, etc. The specific styles of tunic suits can be designed by diplomats and professional costume designers to be determined, and they will eventually need to be determined and implemented through legal procedures.

2. Chinese diplomats often wear. The male diplomat is in a dark suit. Female diplomats can be dark or light-colored suits, or cheongsams of various colors that are not decorated with national identification.

3. Chinese diplomats in casual clothes. Male diplomats can be dark jackets, dark suit pants, etc. Female diplomats do not make clear regulations and can wear fashionable dresses.

(3) The Chinese Diplomat Diplomatic Dress Law stipulates that the Chinese diplomat's dress represents the image of China and is an integral part of the state system. It is by no means a trivial matter. Therefore, the Chinese diplomat's dress will eventually be determined through legislation. This regulation may be called the "Interim Regulations on the Dress of Diplomats of the People's Republic of China." In addition, the formal, regular, and casual clothes of Chinese civil servants may refer to the formal, regular and casual clothes of Chinese diplomats. The "formal attire" of civil servants, which is particularly emphasized, can be used as the formal attire of Chinese civil servants by removing the "Chinese tunic suit" on the shoulders, collars, sleeves, buttons, etc., inlaid with the national emblem, national flag, country name, and diplomatic title. Regular dress and casual dress can be executed directly with reference to the regular dress and casual dress of Chinese diplomats.